LETTER FROM PARIS #39 my tale of two cities.

I am a devoted reader of Bernard Cornewell, probably the best living historical novelist. I am reading him during my sojourn in France so there is a wonderful resonance for me: I read about 9th century England or the 14th century in France and at the same time I am experiencing the mediaeval setting of some small French towns. I feel like I’m there when I read Cornwell and when I walk mediaeval streets. I am taken back to the Middle Ages.

A UNESCO designation is supposed to preserve a town or city and encourage the residents to maintain all the history. I am not sure who is supposed to pay for all this. Is it the U.N? I think they have their hands full and their pockets next to empty. I presume that it is up to the city or country to supply the funds to preserve the history, the buildings, the setting, the sense of being back in time.

The two towns, both 13th-14th century: Chateau Neuf du Pape and Viviers. There could not be a greater contrast. The former celebrates itself and its heritage. The buildings are beautifully cared for. The latter is literally falling down. If I had my choice, aesthetically and historically, I would place Viviers at the top of the list. Once a bustling little town of several thousand on the banks of the Rhone, it has shrunk to around 600 permanent residents. It is in pathetic disrepair. It is not derelict, like a ghost town, it is just neglected, except for tourists. It is on every river cruise stop. I wonder how many of the casual travelers feel as I do.

There are of course, differences beyond the preservation issue. Chateau Neuf du Pape, is the same name as the vintage wines that come from the district. The prosperity of the town depends of the popularity and success of the wine. You presume that almost everyone who lives there depends on the wine industry for a living. Even though the French wine industry is suffering seriously from the world -wide competition, Chateauneauf is unique and seems not to be hurting.

Viviers has literally nothing! There is no commercial side to the town. There are a few restaurants, but there is absolutely no other commerce. The residents have to drive to the next town to do their shopping. Not for this reason alone is the town moldering. It fades away because, as far as I know, no one finances its upkeep. The buildings are some of the best examples of mediaeval architecture I have seen. They range from small single-room-wide to multi story mansions embellished with beautifully carved baroque and classical figures.

The streets (in both towns) are narrow and wind around climbing steep hills. In Château Neuf du Pape it maintains everything. I suspect real estate prices probably reflect the conditions of the town. In Viviers, there is more than enough rack and ruin to go around. I asked our guide, Patrice, a man who speaks well but with an accent that makes his English other-worldly, “What is the story with these broken windows?” He shrugged. He looked mournful. He said “No one will pay to have them fixed.”

One of the best examples of the period is a four story home, beautifully embellished. It had been bought many years ago by an American who simply disappeared. The house fell into disrepair. The roof leaked and the splendid interior was damaged and CONTINUES TO BE DAMAGED! Half the windows are broken. It is not the only once-stately home abandoned and with broken windows. The only thing that occurs to me is that the Rhone river floods. Our guide showed is, in the lower part of the town, where the high-water marks were. It was enough to inundate any house that was not on a hill.

Surprise: there is only building that not only survives, it seems to be flourishing: the church. It is a splendid example of Roman/Gothic architecture. (The kind that can’t make up its architectural mind – not as uncommon sight.) The highlight of our visit was an organ concert. A very good organist and a very good organ. Because the crowd was mixed, the concert would try to be popular. It succeeded. After a Couperin Sonata, it became more “pop.” He played the famous Bach Toccata and Fugue, the Adagio of Samuel Barber and a rousing romp through the final portion (The Lone Ranger bit) of the William Tell Overture.

I did like the concert, even though an organ with crashing echoes in a stone church is not my favourite.. While this wonderful music streamed out I was still distracted by what I had seen. My mind kept jumping from the concert to the state of the town, decaying around this beautiful church. It was there I wondered: “Where is UNESCO when you need it?

France has always invested heavily in the enhancement and preservation of its historical buildings. Viviers has fallen through the cracks. It could be that there are a hundred Viviers falling apart throughout France, I’m no authority. They do love their history. I think they need to give some loving to this forgotten town. After all, no one can accuse the French of not having more than enough vanity to go around. Maybe someone there will read this piece. I’m not holding my breath.